Midwest Expandable Guinea Habitat

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Midwest Expandable Guinea Habitat

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FurReal Friends Newborn - Guinea Pig Black And White

FurReal Friends Newborn Black & White Guinea Pig

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Care of Guinea Pigs This care sheets contains basic information for the care of guinea pigs. Please consult more detailed sources for additional information -- books, or your veterinarian. The guinea pig (or cavy) is a member of the rodent family with an average life span of 4 to 7 years. These sociable, somewhat skittish creatures are easy to care for, seldom bite and are exceptionally clean. Wild guinea pigs are a prey species and their domestic counterparts retain a desire to run for cover when startled or threatened and so it is necessary to provide a shelter in their cage where they can seek safety. Since they do not climb they are easy to contain in a habitat and are easily located should they run free. Guinea pigs must chew to wear down their constantly-growing front teeth, so you need to provide chew items such as apple, birch or willow branches, dried (whole grain) bread crusts, hay and/or firm vegetables such as carrots and broccoli stems. Guinea pigs are social animals, so it is best if they live in pairs. Usually sows (females) cohabit well as either siblings or mother-daughter pairs. Boars (males) will sometimes get along but they often do not unless raised together. Boars should not be placed with sows under any circumstances even for a short period. Please do not breed guinea pigs. It is more difficult than you might think to find good, long term homes for the offspring. It is possible to have guinea pigs neutered but there is some risk involved - consult a veterinarian specializing in small animals. Housing The guinea pig habitat can be a simple arrangement with walls 30 cm. high, open on top and having a minimum floor area of 3,000 square cm (approx. 2ft by 2ft.). More space is needed for a pair of guinea pigs. The enclosure should be made of wood, plastic or metal with a solid floor and the bedding should be white wood shavings (not sawdust or cedar shavings). A nest box or house must also be provided. Change the wood shavings regularly to keep the cage clean, dry and healthy. Make your habitat larger if you have room. Place interesting items such as small cardboard or wooden boxes or tubes for your guinea pig to dart into. Keep your guinea pigs in a dry area protected from cold drafts and direct sunlight. Guinea pigs cannot tolerate excessive heat. Guinea pigs prefer living in temperatures in the same 18-25 C (65-75 F) range people do. Guinea pigs require exercise and will happily romp around a room that has been cleared of hazards such as electric cords, cats or dogs and poisonous plants. Click here to learn how to build an inexpensive guinea pig habitat. o o Food and Water Guinea pigs are herbivores, meaning they eat only grasses, vegetables and fruit. Provide twice daily an assortment of foods (4 or 5 types) such as carrots, peas, apples, green peppers, spinach, kale, pears, dandelion leaves, clover, plantain, cucumbers, corn, celery, melons, oranges, beet tops and parsley. Food preferences vary from guinea pig to guinea pig. Also, guinea pigs tend to become habituated to certain foods from a young age so provide a variety of foods and continue over time to reintroduce foods previously ignored. Do not feed lettuce, cabbage, beans, potatoes, rhubarb or chocolate to guinea pigs (or rabbits), the latter three can be toxic. Your guinea pig's basic diet should also be supplemented with pelleted commercial feed. Fresh pellets are vital to guinea pigs as they are enriched with vitamin C which guinea pigs (like humans) cannot synthesize. Purchase fresh pellets in small quantities, never keeping pellets on hand for more than a month. Place the food in heavy plastic or ceramic bowls that won't easily tip, one bowl for pellets and one for fresh food. Plastic sipper bottles are best for water. Be sure the nipple is low enough for the smallest guinea pig to reach. Change water daily, and weekly clean and disinfect water bottle and food dishes. Hay is also important for your guinea pig, adding fibre to the diet. Hay should be fed daily and in abundance. Compressed bales of hay can be purchased at pet stores or purchased directly from farmers or from country feed stores. If your guinea pig is not fed enough fruits or vegetables or if the pellets are not fresh, he or she may become deficient in Vitamin C. Vitamin C may be added to your guinea pig’s diet through the water. Dissolve 200 mg of Vitamin C per litre of drinking water in your pet's bottle (this should not be necessary if you are feeding plenty of fresh foods). Handling Always use two hands to pick up your guinea pig. Be sure one hand supports the rump and hind legs. Guinea pigs like to be cuddled but must be handled gently and carefully. A nervous guinea pig may jump from your grasp, a common cause of broken legs and backs. Hold your guinea pig while you are sitting down, preferably on the floor, so that the animal will not be injured if he or she does fall. Support your guinea pig with a towel on your lap - guinea pigs sometimes have "accidents." Do not allow your guinea pig to walk around on table tops or couches because guinea pigs will most certainly wander too close to the edge and fall. Grooming/Nail Trimming Long haired breeds should be brushed regularly with a soft brush. Baths can be given to guinea pigs. Line a sink with a towel or rag and bathe your guinea pig in a sink half full of lukewarm water. Use a mild pet shampoo only (do not use soaps or shampoos designed for people). Rinse thoroughly, and dry with a towel. A hair dryer set to a warm setting can also be used. Nails need to be trimmed about every six weeks or as necessary. Consult a vet or knowledgeable person for instructions if hesitant. Care must be taken to avoid cutting the blood vessel in the centre of the nail. In good light this vessel is clearly visible. If accidentally severed use a product called "Quick-Stop" (available at pet stores) to stop the bleeding. Medical Problems Guinea pigs are susceptible to respiratory viruses and catching one could be fatal. Your veterinarian should be consulted if you notice diarrhea, difficulty in breathing, hair loss, excessive water drinking, lack of activity or appetite or anything else you think is unusual. Injuries due to falls or other accidents should be treated by a veterinarian immediately. (Also, see chart below.) For More Information This brochure is meant to provide minimum care guidelines for guinea pigs. Learn more about guinea pigs by consulting your veterinarian and/or one of the many care books for guinea pigs available at book stores, pet stores or your public library. Look for ones that describe nutrition, health issues, nail clipping and guinea pig behaviour.. Guinea Pig Health Chart: POSSIBLE CAUSE (CURED AT HOME) Boredom (add more items to habitat; more attention to animal) Environment too cold and/or damp; draft; overheating; not enough to gnaw Not enough to gnaw Eating large amount of foods high in water (i.e., iceberg lettuce, cucumber); not enough hay; environment too cool or damp Draft; temperatures too hot or too cold Panting due to high heat, shock, fear, or stress Unclean maintenance; poor grooming; fleas or mites Minor wound or scratch from fighting with rival; sharp object in habitat Poor diet (more fruits and vegetables) Housing with wire bottom; fecal soiling of cage bottom (cleanliness) MORE SERIOUS CAUSE (CONSULT VETERINARIAN) Possible infection Teeth are too long or possible malocclusion (upper and lower teeth meet improperly when chewing). Teeth too long or a malocclusion SYMPTOM Listless Doesn't Eat Drooling Diarrhea Bacterial infection Sneezing or throat rumbling Rapid breathing Excessive scratching Slight bleeding Bare spots in fur Sore on foot pad Viral or bacterial infection Heat stroke Parasites (fleas or mites); skin fungus; skin inflammation Clean minor wounds with antiseptic; for severe cut see veterinarian Deficiency disease (Vitamin C deficiency); fungal skin disease Abscess on ball of foot Building A Better Habitat A single guinea pig or small rabbit can manage in a cage 60cm long x 40cm wide with plenty of out-of-cage exercise. This is a standard sized cage sold in most pet supply stores. However, your guinea pig or rabbit would prefer a larger area to move around in and explore, a place to exercise and feel protected — a habitat. Building a habitat for your guinea pig or rabbit can be fun and is not difficult. The step by step design we feature here takes about an hour to make and uses plastic sign board (it looks like corrugated cardboard but is made of plastic). You can buy a 4 foot by 8 foot sheet from a sign shop, building supply store or plastics store for between $12 and $18. From the flat sheet you will be cutting the sheet to size (see step 1), then scoring and folding the plastic (see step 2) to create a waterproof box. Your finished box will be 2x5 ft and be 3 times the area of the small 60cm by 40cm cage – the perfect size for one or two guinea pigs or a small rabbit (Note: For a rabbit you may find that higher sides work better). Sides that are 12 inches high (30 cm) will contain a guinea pig, as these animals do not jump or climb. In fact, most guinea pigs will be very content in a habitat of this size, preferring to stay inside it rather than try to escape, providing their new enclosure is in a safe quiet location and is made comfortable with a nesting box and some tubes to crawl through. To make the guinea pig’s enclosure safer it is a good idea to purchase a piece of 1 inch square wire mesh called “hardware cloth” from a building supply or farm supply store to put on top of the enclosure (you can also use special rabbit cage wire). Using wire cutters cut the wire to fit about an inch larger than the enclosure. Bend the edges down to make a lid. Twist-ties or pipe-cleaners can secure it to the top of the enclosure by piercing small holes along the top or the box (this is particularly important with rabbits). This will also protect your guinea pig from cats, dogs or other intruders. For a rabbit enclosure you must use the wire mesh to keep your rabbit from simply hopping out. You may also want to add more height to the rabbit’s enclosure so there is more room for him to hop. Add approximately 1-2 inches (3-5cm) of white wood shavings. Put the food dish and vegetable dish in one corner and mount the water bottle close to a corner by piercing a small hole in the side of the exercise area and using a pipe cleaner to secure it (see Step 4). (Hint: For more stability you could use one of the cut out pieces of corroplast for added backing.) Mount the mineral lick in a similar fashion. Add a wooden or cardboard house, some hay and some fruit wood branches for chewing. Place your new habitat in a quiet area away from drafts and direct sunlight. Your guinea pig or rabbit will enjoy being in this larger area. Guinea pigs can usually be kept in the enclosure at all times. Rabbits will still need some daily exercise outside of the enclosure. Add interesting items to the habitat such as large diameter poster tubes or small cardboard boxes with guinea pig doors cut out of the sides. Some people use large diameter plastic plumbing pipes. Avoid objects like metal cans that might have sharp edges or small tunnels that your guinea pig or rabbit might get stuck in. Some guinea pigs and rabbits enjoy ripping apart brown paper bags or jumping over a small log. Be creative but only introduce safe, sensible items to your animal. Avoid objects that might give off harmful fumes (like carpets) or poisonous items (like treated woods), and any that have paints or dyes the animal might ingest. Stick to items that are natural such as wool, unbleached cardboard, or wood. By keeping your animal’s physical and psychological needs in mind, you will create a habitat that is safe and enjoyable for your animal. Step by Step Tools/Materials/Cost 1 sheet corrugated plastic $18.00 1 length of 1 inch wire mesh $7.00 Roll of 2 inch masking or packing tape Exacto or Utility knife Tape measure Square or straight edge Wire cutters Pipe-cleaners/Twist-ties Total $25.00 Step 1: Cut 1 foot off the length of the full sheet to make a 4x7 sheet.Mark out lines 12 inches (30 cm) from each edge. The 12 inch corner squares need to be cut out of the sheet. Step 2: Score the plastic with a knife (being careful to only pierce one layer of the corrugated plastic) along the lines that make up the sides. Step 3: Fold up each of the sides to create the box. Secure the end joints together with masking tape or packing tape from the outside (not the inside – guinea pigs will chew anything). Your waterproof box is complete. Step 4: Add approximately 1-2 inches (3-5cm) of white wood shavings. Put the food dish and vegetable dish in one corner and mount the water bottle close to a corner by piercing a small hole in the side of the exercise area and using a pipe cleaner to secure it . Step 5: Mount the mineral lick in a similar fashion. Add a wooden or cardboard house, some hay and some fruit wood branches for chewing. 

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Tel: (613) 725-3166 www.ottawahumane.ca DIET A healthy diet for adults is based on guinea pig pellets and quality grass hay, such as timothy hay. Both should be freely available at all times. Babies under six months and pregnant sows need alfalfa hay. A constant supply of hay provides fibre, vital to keep the teeth and digestive system in good shape. Guinea pigs must have adequate vitamin C in their diet. Look for plain pellets containing vitamin C but without seeds, nuts or coloured treats. The bag should be date stamped to ensure freshness and vitamin C potency. Also provide each guinea pig with a cupful of mixed fresh vegetables and fruit daily. Choose produce with a high vitamin C content, such as parsley, romaine lettuce, bell peppers and dandelions, occasionally adding a piece of carrot. Fresh water in a sipper bottle should be available at all times. Nutritional supplements are not necessary if a good, varied diet is provided. FERTILITY Male guinea pigs can be sexually mature at three weeks of age. Determine each pet’s sex, and keep males and females separate at all times to prevent unwanted babies. Because it is difficult to find enough appropriate homes for them, breeding guinea pigs is strongly discouraged. If a male and female are kept together, the male guinea pig should be neutered by an experienced veterinarian who specializes in exotics. A QUICK GUIDE TO GUINEA PIGS SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS • Penicillin-based drugs, commonly prescribed for other pets, are toxic to guinea pigs. • Exercise wheels and balls can cause injury to guinea pigs and should never be used. • Never leave your guinea pigs unsupervised where a predator or other pet could harm them. MORE INFORMATION Guinea Pigs: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual, by Katie Behrend Guinea Pig Care: www.guineapigs.info HEALTH Find a veterinarian specializing in exotic animals and experienced in treating guinea pigs before you have an emergency. Guinea pigs try to hide signs of illness, so by the time you notice something is wrong, the illness is usually well advanced. The following signs mean your pet needs urgent veterinary care: not eating or drinking, lethargy, sneezing, wheezing, crusty eyes, fluffed up fur, diarrhea, blood in urine, loss of balance, tilted head, excessive scratching or hair loss. Keeping a weekly record of your pet’s weight will alert you to weight loss, which often indicates a health problem. www.ottawahumane.ca Ottawa Humane Society Guinea pigs make delightful companions for both adults and families. Once settled in their new home, guinea pigs are inquisitive, friendly and talkative. Guinea pigs are social animals, so it’s best to keep at least two for companionship. Their average life span is four to eight years but, with proper care and nutrition, guinea pigs can live up to ten years. Before adopting a pet guinea pig, consider the following: • Guinea pigs need nutritious food, fresh water and a clean habitat. • Guinea pigs need daily exercise and play. • All household members should understand how to hold and play with a guinea pig, and they should all be as eager as you welcome a guinea pig or two into the family. Tel: (613) 725-3166 www.ottawahumane.ca Optional items • One igloo • Bird toys made of untreated wood • Large diameter ferret tubes • Portable playpen • Cat carrier for travel • Medium or large Fiddle Sticks® • Bag of alfalfa hay for babies and sows after (not before) they’ve given birth HOUSING Guinea pigs should be kept indoors, safe from predators and climate extremes. Choose, or make, as large a cage as possible, with plenty of room for exercise. Aquariums are not suitable, due to poor ventilation. Look for a cage with a solid bottom, as wire floors and ramps can injure guinea pigs’ feet. Cover the floor with bedding such as pine shavings. Avoid sawdust as well as cedar, which contain harmful oils. The cage is best kept in a room where your pets can enjoy your company, out of drafts and direct sunlight. A temperature range of 65–75° F is ideal. Guinea pigs love a house or igloo to rest in and appreciate a few safe toys to play with, such as bird toys made from untreated wood. Choose heavy food dishes, or those that clip onto the cage, so the contents don’t spill. Keep your guinea pig’s habitat clean by removing soiled litter daily. Wash food dishes, water bottles and the cage bottom once a week. Always rinse and dry the cage well before adding clean bedding and returning your pet. GENERAL CARE Regular exercise outside the cage is essential for your guinea pig’s health, as well as great fun for the family. A room can be made safe for guinea pigs by preventing access to electrical cords, removing hazardous items and blocking gaps under appliances and furniture. Alternatively, a playpen will allow your pets to romp in safety. Guinea pigs enjoy a variety of safe toys such as wide tubes, cartons and wood bird toys. Most guinea pigs are cautious about being picked up, but love being petted once they are on your lap. Children must be supervised when holding a guinea pig and taught not to hold it too tightly or allow it to fall or jump. Guinea pigs are easily injured and may nip if not handled gently. While your guinea pig is on your lap, brush it gently to keep the coat sleek. An occasional toenail trim should also be part of regular grooming. SETTING UP HOUSE Essential items • Spacious cage with solid bottom (no aquariums!) • Two water bottles (if you’re housing two males or as back-up when you are away from the house) • One food dish (medium-sized ceramic or attachable bowl to the sides of the cage) • Two hay racks (if you’re housing two males or as back-up when you are away from the house) • One wooden hiding house • Soft brush & metal comb for longhaired guinea pigs • Nail clippers • Shavings • Large bag of green timothy hay • Plain guinea pig pellets (no seeds or nuts!) • Fresh green vegetables • Small piece of fruit Please support the animals in our community. but they need may be small, aily Guinea pigs ialized diet, d y cages, a spec room be happy le handling to eanup and gent cl and healthy. 101 Champagne Ave. S. Ottawa, ON K1S 4P3 Tel: 725-3166 / Fax: 725-5674 www.ottawahumane.ca email: ohs@ottawahumane.ca Charitable #: 123264715 RR0001 2005/03 

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Guinea Pig Care Responsibility involves providing proper housing, nutrition, grooming and veterinary care Background • Guinea pigs originally came from South America. They’re larger than hamsters, but smaller than rabbits. They generally live for five to seven years, and are very sociable animals. • The various breeds of guinea pigs include Abyssinian, Abyssinian Satin, Peruvian, Peruvian Satin, Silkie (Sheltie), Silkie Satin, Teddy, Teddy Satin, Texal, American, American Satin, White Crested and Coronet. There are a wide variety of different hair types, colors and markings. • Guinea pigs make wonderful companions. They bite only when very frightened, usually from such things as mishandling or fear of a threatening animal. Children caring for guinea pigs should always be supervised by an adult, since these animals need to be treated gently. They are not toys. Primary responsibility should be with the parents. One of a guinea pig’s most endearing traits is his tendency to whistle when excited by someone coming into the room or offering a special treat. and/or empty coffee cans with smoothed edges in the enclosure. Guinea pigs can be allowed to run free in one room to get some additional exercise, but the room should be carefully checked for any openings from which the guinea pigs can escape, get lost and possibly end up hurt. These animals must be supervised when they are loose because they will chew on anything in their paths— including electrical wires. Diet • It is essential for you to provide your guinea pig with enough vitamin C. A quarter of an orange will meet her recommended requirements, and you can also offer other high-C foods such as kale and strawberries. Guinea pig pellets are supplemented with vitamin C, but rabbit pellets are not. Therefore, it is best to buy only guinea pig food. • You can give your guinea pig small amounts of fresh fruit and vegetables to complement his or her basic diet, but always make sure to clean up any leftover fresh food before it spoils. The ASPCA also recommends that you make grass hay available to your pet. It’s great for the digestive system, and will satisfy your pet’s need to gnaw. Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. Use an inverted bottle with a drinking tube, and change the water daily. should be brushed daily in order to prevent tangles and knots from forming. • Guinea pigs are social animals who prefer to live in small groups. If necessary, two young males generally can be kept together, but fighting usually breaks out among adult males. Several females can be kept together without problems, however. Since guinea pigs, like all rodents, multiply rapidly, keeping males and females together is not recommended. • A guinea pig who is ill should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible. WHERE CAN YOU FIND A GUINEA PIG? The ASPCA recommends getting yours from a responsible breeder or adopting one from a shelter or smallanimal rescue group. Call your local shelter and search on sites like www.petfinder.com for guinea pigs in need of loving homes. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION • “ASPCA Pet Care Guides for Kids – Guinea Pig”; Mark Evans; Dorling Kindersley; London, England; 1993. • In case of accidental poisoning, call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (ASPCA/APCC) 24-Hour Emergency Hotline Numbers: (888) 4ANI-HELP (426-4435) ($50 per case; Visa, MasterCard, Discover or American Express when you call.) Housing • The minimum space recommended for a single guinea pig is 2’ x 2’ x 2’. More space must be provided for any additional guinea pigs. Wire-bottom cages can be used if something is put down as flooring to keep the guinea pig’s feet from getting caught in the wire bottom. Never use a glass aquarium, due to the poor ventilation that it provides. Always keep the cage indoors away from drafts and extreme temperatures. The bottom of the cage should be lined with wood shavings or some other form of safe bedding. Do not use cedar or pine chips—the oils they contain can be dangerous to the animal. Timothy hay is a good choice of bedding. Be sure to change the bedding often enough to keep it dry and odor-free. It is possible to train a guinea pig to use a litter box, but the process is a slow one and a great deal of patience is required. • Guinea pigs love to hide when they play, so be sure to place cardboard tubes General Care • Guinea pigs’ teeth grow continuously, just like those of all other rodents. So, it is important for you to give your guinea pig a piece of wood that he or she can gnaw on to wear his or her teeth down. It’s best to provide a tree branch that has not been treated with pesticides or any other chemicals, but any small piece of unpainted wood that hasn’t been treated with chemicals will do. • Guinea pigs are very conscientious about grooming themselves, but brushing them on a regular basis will help keep their coat clean and remove any loose hairs. Long-haired guinea pigs The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals National Headquarters • 424 E. 92nd St. • New York, NY 10128-6804 • (212) 876-7700 • www.aspca.org Midwestern Regional Office • 1717 South Philo Road, Suite 36 • Urbana, IL 61802 • (217) 337-5030 • www.aspca.org/apcc TM and ® are protected by The ASPCA. ©2004 The ASPCA